Turin's Piazza San Carlo: the city's living room

Dedicated to San Carlo Borromeo in 1618 and completed only in the first half of the 17th century, the square has undergone numerous toponymic changes over time: Piazza Reale, Piazza d’Armi and Place Napolèon, before definitively acquiring its current name. For the city's inhabitants, it is nothing other than Turin's living room: a sumptuous and elegant rectangular complex redesigned on an already existing perimeter by Carlo di Castellamonte and Benedetto Alfieri between 1637 and 1642. Today it hosts commercial activities, historic cafes, churches, porticoes and royal palaces. At the center stands the equestrian statue of Emanuele Filiberto di Savoy, also known as Caval ëd Bronz.

       
The origins and the three names of the square

The area where Piazza San Carlo currently stands is the result of the progressive enlargement of the urban center during the French period of the Duchy of Savoy: the city expanded south, beyond the first city walls of Roman origin, and the Borgo Nuovo (New Village) was built. In this area, in 1618, construction began on the Place Royale, the Piazza Reale concluded in 1638 and inaugurated by Madame Christine of France; initially it served as a market area and noble representation function.

After 1650 it gradually lost its representative functions and became an area of passage for armies from Piazza Castello towards the Citadel keep: hence its new name Piazza d'Armi. Interesting is the anecdote of the military siege of Turin in 1706, when it was hit by at least three cannon shots, whose cannonballs are still visible and embedded above an arc of the Solaro del Borgo palace, and on the edges of the windows on the upper floors above the Mokita bar, at the corner of Via Alfieri.

The square gradually lost its military function as well and thanks to the architectural interventions of Benedetto Alfieri it gained its current beauty, with the embellishment of the porticoes and the reinforcement of the pillars to confer greater solidity to the structures. The final name is that of the Milanese archbishop San Carlo, to whom the entire city was particularly devoted. After a brief interlude from 1800 to 1815, when the square took the name of Place Napolèon, it returned to its original toponym.

      
The monuments of Piazza San Carlo in Turin

Standing out above all, precisely because it is in the heart of the square, is the equestrian statue dedicated to Emanuele Filiberto di Savoy. The Caval ëd Bronz depicts a warlike pose but paradoxically symbolizes peace, in fact the horse is held by the reins and the knight sheathes his sword instead of drawing it. Inaugurated in 1838, it had been previously exhibited at the Louvre in Paris before being moved to the center of Turin. During the war and the city's bombardments, the monument was protected by wooden structures to prevent its destruction.

On the south side of the square, the two “twin” churches of Baroque architecture, Santa Cristina (1639) and San Carlo (1619), face each other. The first, commissioned by Maria Cristina of France, is distinguished by the façade designed by Filippo Juvarra between 1715 and 1718. Also known as the Chiesa delle serve, during the Nineteenth century it was frequented by women serving noble and wealthy families in the neighborhood. That of San Carlo is obviously dedicated to the Milanese saint after his pilgrimage on foot to the city to go and pray before the Holy Shroud.

 The longer side of the square hosts Palazzo Solaro del Borgo, another seventeenth-century work by Carlo di Castellamonte and Benedetto Alfieri with an elegant façade and portico, today home to the Società del Whist - Accademia Filarmonica, a prestigious private club in Turin. The perimeter is a continuous succession of other noble residences such as Palazzo Turinetti, headquarters of the Intesa Sanpaolo group, and Palazzo Guido Villa, all supported by sumptuous porticoes hosting renowned cafes and commercial activities.

Located a few steps from the square, the Royal Museums are one of the most important cultural sites in the city, with a vast collection of works of art, archaeology, and natural history. Among the treasures not to be missed are the Sabauda Galleries, where you can admire works by artists such as Raphael, Rembrandt, and Canaletto, and the Egyptian Museum, in Via Lagrange, which houses one of the world's most important collections dedicated to Neolithic civilization.

Then, walking along Via Roma to Piazza Castello, we can admire the majestic Royal Palace.

      
Porticoes and cafes of Piazza San Carlo

 Caffè San Carlo and Caffè Torino above all. Salons of subalpine elegance that have seen illustrious clients, nobles, politicians and writers succeed one another over the decades, especially between the Nineteenth and Twentieth centuries. Walking under the porticoes that house the cafes means experiencing the charm of aristocratic Turin of the various Cavour or Giolitti up to Pavese and De Gasperi who have actually stopped and discussed in Piazza San Carlo. In front of Caffè Torino, the rampant bronze bull, symbol of the Piedmontese capital, has been set into the pavement since 1930: stepping on its "attributes" seems to bring good luck. At number 191 of the perimeter, on the eastern side, appears Confetteria Stratta, active since 1836, still known throughout the peninsula for its products: its austere shop window is the symbol of the confectionery tradition of Turin and Piedmont. In short, a stop at the tables or a walk sheltered by the porticoes are essential stops for those visiting the city.

And then we start again, perhaps heading towards Mole Antonelliana or Porta Palatina, important monument of Turin. Or even northwest of Piazza San Carlo, in the Quadrilatero area, where another one appears, where Piazza Statuto, one of the last of the Risorgimento history of Italy's Savoyard capital, is located.

For Turinese, Piazza San Carlo is probably the most beautiful square in the city. Yet the Piedmontese capital is a treasure chest of Baroque and French art treasures, of neoclassical and Risorgimento style. A pearl of culture, art and architecture. Come and visit it and choose to stay at our B&B HOTEL Turin President, for a stay in the city center in total comfort, at the best value for money. We await you.