Darmstadt, 1 hôtel

The Luisenplatz marks the centre of the city, making it an ideal starting point for any city tour. As you enter the square, your eyes will inevitably be drawn to the 39m high column which is known locally as the ‘Langer Ludwig.’ This memorial was built to honour the Grand Duke Ludwig I, who drafted Hesse’s first constitution in 1820. On the first Saturday in every month from April to October, visitors can climb to the top of the 30m high platform and enjoy the view. On the northern side of the Luisenplatz, you will see Darmstadt’s oldest administrative building, the college building. Today it is used as the seat of the regional council.

Following building plans drafted by Joseph Maria Olbrecht, the construction of Ernst-Ludwig-Haus began in 1900. The building serves as a studio for Darmdstadt’s artistic community. To the left and the right of the entrance stand two, six metre-high figures, known as ‘Man and woman’, or ‘Strength and beauty’, by the artist Ludwig Habich. The artists’ colony, a living and working community, was established in 1899 by the Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig, to address Hesse’s underdeveloped industry and establish new creative influences. Nowadays Ernst-Ludwig-Haus is home to the Artists’ Colony Museum, which explores the work and history of the artists.

Seven artists formed the original Darmstadt artists colony. Joseph Maria Olbrich, Peter Behrens, Paul Bürck, Rudolf Bosselt, Hans Christiansen, Ludwig Habich and Patriz Huber. Residential houses, artists studios and galleries were built in the Art Nouveau style on the former gardens. The aim of the Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig, who founded the colony, was to develop new creative approaches for future designs. The community of architects, sculptors and painters worked together here between 1899 and 1914. The artistic tradition continues through the work of various well known institutes, based in the Mathildenhöhe’s historic buildings.

The ‘Waldspirale’ residential complex bears the unmistakable hallmarks of a well-known artist: Friedensreich Hundertwasser. He guided the architecture in his own unique way with colourful and irregular shapes. Golden onion-shaped turrets dominate the complex with its 105 apartments, maple and beech trees decorate the roof, a small artificial stream flows through the garden and no two windows are the same. Sadly, the artist didn’t live to see the completion of his ‘Fairytale Castle.’ He passed away in February 2000, just a few months before it was opened.

If you have exhausted the attractions of Darmstadt’s inner city, or are simply in the mood for an excursion, head south for the small town of Nieder-Beerbach. It is located about 20 minutes’ from the main train station. Here you will find an historic fort and defensive castle: The Burg Frankenstein. This is invariably associated with the famous horror story, ‘Frankenstein or the new Prometheus’ by Mary Shelley. And it is a real place! You can find out all about the history of the castle on guided tours led by the castle’s clerk, Walter. Equally famous: Germany’s biggest Halloween Party takes place here every year.

The Orangerie is a wonderful place to go for a walk or to relax, especially in the summer. The Baroque complex was designed by head gardener J. K. Ehret from Heidelberg, and is surrounded by broad avenues of trees. Countless potted orange trees line the pathways, lending the park a Mediterranean feel. The Orangerie was former used as a Winter store for the orange trees, but today it functions as a reception centre, with an excellent Italian restaurant. The new greenhouses now serve as Winter accommodation for the plants.

Tsar Nicholas II commissioned this Russian chapel in 1897, so that he would have somewhere to pray during his visits to his wife Alexandra’s hometown. The sacred building was erected on the Mathildenhöhe according to plans by the St Petersburg architect Léon Benois. Religious services continue to be held in the church, which is dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, to the present day. Set among the surrounding Art Nouveau buildings, the Russian Chapel appears almost exotic, and it has become an integral part of the cityscape. The richly-decorated facade with its golden domes and the artistic frescoes in the interior of the chapel combine to create a wonderful work of art.

Anyone who is exploring the centre of Darmstadt is bound to come across the Residential Palace sooner or later. And it is definitely worth taking a peek behind the baroque facade. After it was built by the Counts of Katzenelnbogen in the 13th century, the castle underwent renovations and extensions, and was completely rebuilt after being destroyed, for example during the Schmalkaldic War of 1547. As a result, the modern-day Residential Palace reveals a variety of building styles. In the attached castle museum, you can take a closer look at the origins of the Castle and of Darmstadt’s Landgraves and Dukes.